A diptych (pronounced "dip-tick" IPA: [ dip'tik] (or US: [ 'dɪp.tɪk ]) from the Greek δίπτυχο [ ði'pti.xo ] di- "two" + ptychē "fold")

People, Places, Things



For this assignment you will create 5 diptychs. Use your 400 shots to photograph PEOPLE, PLACES, and THINGS—you should shoot at least three rolls for each topic. Pay attention to quality of light—try shooting in the early evening, in the fog, in various kinds of artificial light, at night with long shutter speeds, etc. Remember to make INTERESTING IMAGES that will work well in pairs.

Your first 40 shots should be 400 ISO or less and should be shot between the hours of 10am and 2pm outside on a bright day. Make sure to make contact sheets of all your images.
40 must be slower than 400 ISO
40 must be 400 ISO
40 must be 800 ISO or above
The rest of the shots are your choice.

Over the next few class you will be bringing in Raw images to work on using Adobe Raw. The images will be placed next to each other in diptychs. Examples will be shown in class.. You will be outputting onto 8.5x11 paper using the Epson printer.

Print Day Mon March 31/7Wed April 2


Project due : Beginning of Class Monday, April 7

For Monday March 3rd

Hi there,
Bring in your camera and a small object to photograph

Some great videos

http://www.kqed.org/arts/people/spark/profile.jsp?id=6820

and

http://www.kqed.org/arts/people/spark/profile.jsp?id=6700


sorry just look up Todd Hido+ Spark to see video of the artist at work

CLICK

click@sanfranmag.com.


for examples check out

www.sanfranmag.com


file should be big enough to fit on a two page spread

interesting blog

http://www.thephotographsnottaken.com/

CNN Eclipse Pics

http://www.cnn.com/2008/TECH/space/02/21/eclipse.irpt/index.html

20 Shots

First 20 Shots Bracketing Assignment

Shoot using ISO 400
Choose situations where the lighting will stay virtually the same while you shoot. You will be photographing each given situation without moving the position or orientation of the camera.

Bracketing

Photograph your subject in direct sunlight. Note the frame, the meter reading (indicated f/stop and shutter speed for the ‘correct’ exposure), the actual exposure (the f/stop and shutter speed that you actually used), and your understanding of the affect of your actual exposure (i.e. is it overexposed one stop, underexposed one stop)

Take an exposure based on your in camera light meter reading. From the same place take two more frames underexposing your film a stop in each frame then take two more pictures overexposing your film a stop in each frame. Do this by adjusting your shutter speed.

Photograph in the shade and repeat the same process. This time adjust the under and over exposure using the lens aperture (f-stop).

At the end of this process, you will have shot ten frames.

Equivalent Exposure

Place your subject in a moderate lighting situation. Take a meter reading for the correct exposure with your aperture at f4 and record the shutter speed. Shoot a frame at this exposure. Proceed to make four additional exposures, each time changing the aperture (f-stop) by closing it down and adjusting the shutter speed accordingly to get the correct exposure each time. You should end up with five different frames of the same subject that are at the same exposure, all using five different combinations of f-stops and shutter speeds. Your f-stops should be f4, f5.6, f8, and f11, and your equivalent shutter speeds should be getting slower and slower.

Repeat this process in another setting.

At the end of this process, you will have shot ten more frames (20 frames total).

*NOTE: Some of your cameras have aperture settings that fall in between complete stops—familiarize yourself with the standard f-stops so that you know which apertures constitute a full stop. The equivalent exposure dial in the following pages should help with this.